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At just over 100km from Saigon, Thanh Sang Hotel (1068 Phu Rieng Do Street: 0651 3 879 559; rates from 200,000vnd a night) is fine for a night if you’re running out of daylight.
Dong Xoai is where you first hit the Ho Chi Minh Road.
For much of its length, the road is a quiet, well-made, easily accessible, two-lane highway which sees very little traffic compared to the other major north-south road, Highway 1.
In this comprehensive guide I’ve written a description – including places to stay and eat, and things to see and do – of the entire Ho Chi Minh Road from south to north; starting from Saigon and ending in Hanoi.
If you’d rather see some greenery from your window and be a little bit away from the action, try Damsan or Eden hotels on Nguyen Cong Tru Street.
The latter is also a good street to try the area’s famous coffee: make sure to pick a local cafe on the south side of the street so as to get a view.
grows here, and it grows bigger and greener than anywhere else.
The Ho Chi Minh Road – with its characteristic yellow centre-markings – glides over gentle ridges cloaked in plantations: rubber, cashew, passion fruit, jackfruit, pepper.
Houses, people, vehicles, road surfaces, hillsides are all covered in a layer of red dust.
It’s in great shape here and, almost immediately, one begins to get a sense of the surprising scale of Vietnam’s landmass.
The big distances and horizons on this vast agricultural plateau – which essentially continues all the way north beyond Kon Tum and into Laos – and the sense of space and light, are on a grander scale than one would expect in Vietnam.
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Gia Nghia is a large town alternately carved out of, and perched on top of, the red-soiled hillsides.