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On February 20, no longer able to wait for settled weather, Harlin and his team of Bonington, Scottish climber Dougal Haston and Layton Kor, a lanky, laid-back American recruited for his supreme rock-climbing skills, began their ascent.

Not all the team would be climbing at any one time.

Taking advantage of their greater numbers, the Germans went into the lead. The remaining six hauled food and equipment and carved out ice-caves for the overnight bivouacs.

But when he saw that the Germans were climbing above the Spider, he set out in a bid to catch them.

Shortly after 3.15pm on March 22, he set off up the last fixed rope below the Spider.

Often shrouded by cloud and frequently in deep shadow, it looks every bit as forbidding as its fearsome reputation suggests.

At least 64 climbers have died on the face since the 1930s when its notoriety was sealed with the deaths of eight men, before the first successful ascent in 1938.

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